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Succulent cherry, raspberry and rose aromas and flavors are framed by vanilla and toasty oak in this majestic red, which is concentrated, yet lithe and fruity, with an intense sappiness to the texture. Beautifully balanced and long, this soars on the complex, mineral-infused aftertaste. *Collectibles*
The 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru is just a glorious success. Vivid red fruit, Morello cherries, wild strawberry and pressed violets on the nose, the aromatics here feel so animated and exquisitely defined. The palate is perfectly balanced with a killer line of acidity: crystalline red fruit, filigree tannins and more freshness than it knows what to do with. There is a sense of "channeled intensity" in this Chambertin and whilst there is no question that it is a 20- to 30-years wine, I felt no guilt in polishing this off in its youth. Tasted at Maison de Colombier in Beaune.
Discreet wood is present on the ultra-fresh and incredibly spicy though even more restrained nose that reflects notes of red berries, the sauvage, earth, floral and exotic tea wisps. The gorgeous mouthfeel of the imposingly constituted and admirably concentrated flavors is one of contrasts as the mid-palate is quite supple yet the powerful, driving, austere and muscular finish is robust, serious and austere. This almost painfully intense wine is jaw droppingly good and somewhat curiously relative to how the Chambertin and the Clos de Bèze typically show at this stage, the Chambertin is the flashier of the two. We'll see in time though as it's usually the Chambertin that goes into a shell only to emerge 20+ years later. Be that as it may, today this is a genuine 'wow' wine.
If you're a fan of this grand cru bottling - and which Burgundy lover isn't? - there's a lot more to go around this year, with a record-equalling 46 barrels. The resulting wine doesn't have the concentration of 2015 or 2016, but it's still a spicy, focussed, refined wine with deftly integrated 100% new wood, tangy acidity and caressing tannins.
Revisited from bottle, the 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru is showing beautifully, soaring from the glass with expressive aromas of sweet red berry fruit, smoked meats, coniferous forest floor, mandarin orange and peonies, framed by a deft application of cedary, spicy new oak. Full-bodied, sumptuous and enveloping, its velvety attack segues into an ample core of succulent fruit, concluding with a long and resonant finish. This is likely to be both deceptively approachable young and notably long-lived, offering a broad drinking window.
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