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The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru wafts from the glass with a complex bouquet of red berries, plums, rose petals and orange rind, framed by bass notes of rich, loamy soil and carnal nuances of smoked meats. Full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, it's layered and concentrated, its expansive attack segueing into a richly structured but impressively vibrant mid-palate, concluding with a long, resonant finish. This is a brilliant wine that readers should plan on forgetting for at least a decade.
There is barely enough wood to mention on the wonderfully fresh and airy aromas of red cherry, pomegranate, earth and a hint of the sauvage. The seductively textured yet well-delineated big-bodied flavors possess an abundance of energy on the intensely mineral-inflected, sappy and impeccably well-balanced finale that reflects a touch of youthful austerity. The sheer level of complexity is stunning, and this knockout of a Chambertin should age for a very, very long time yet it's not so backward and it couldn't be approached after a decade or so of aging.
Domaine Rousseau's holdings in this most prestigious of Gevrey-Chambertin Grands Crus are made up of four parcels covering 2.5ha. The good news is that there are 40 barrels of this sought-after wine in 2018, all of them new because 'it needs them to develop', according to Cyrielle Rousseau. It's a refined, even patrician wine showing subtle cinnamon spice, racy acidity and layers of raspberry and wild strawberry fruit. Denser and more powerful than it appears, this will age well in bottle. Drinking Window 2024 - 2036.
The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru has a gorgeous bouquet of intense red fruit, undergrowth, cedar and orange blossom aromas. The medium-bodied palate is lithe and deep, delivering fine tannins, red berry fruit and great tension and depth on the finish. This is an immense Chambertin, one where winemaker Cyrielle Rousseau has managed to impart a sense of dimension, yet this year I find that Rousseau’s Clos-de-Bèze delivers the nobility.
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