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A deep well of pure cherry greets the senses in this generous, yet lively red. Round and relatively accessible, it has a backbone of refined tannins. The core of cherry picks up spice and mineral elements as it winds down on the lingering finish.
Lavaux often shines in warmer years like 2017, thanks to the cooling influence of the nearby combe. The Rousseau family have three parcels in all, totalling 0.8ha, and they seem to have a special affinity with the premier cru. It's subtle, refreshing and ethereal, with crunchy acidity and minerality and sappy pomegranate and red cherry flavours.
The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a perfumed bouquet with red cherries, strawberry, orange blossom and hints of chai tea that develop with aeration. There is fine cohesion and focus here. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip on the entry, lightly spiced and quite peppery for a Lavaux Saint-Jacques, building gradually in the mouth with quite a vibrant spicy, even a touch of curry leaf on the aftertaste.
Pretty and perfumed, Rousseau's 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques bursts from the glass with aromas of red berries, petals, orange rind, smoked meats and sassafras. Medium-bodied, supple and melting, with an ample core of fruit, succulent acids and an open, charming profile, it's already very expressive.
Here the nose is more deeply pitched still with its somber yet fresh array of plum, dark currant, newly turned earth and forest floor scents. There is a marked difference in scale as there is better density to the muscular and intense flavors that brim with evident minerality on the firm, serious and moderately austere finale. At least some patience advised. In short, this is textbook Lavaut.
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