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Delicate, light and pale in colour, this pure, scented Échézeaux shows how well the vines bounced back from the catastrophic 2016 harvest, when frost resulted in super concentrated yields of only 6hl/ha. Spicy, savoury and appealingly perfumed, with notes of red berries, fresh tobacco and green malt from 75% whole cluster fermentation, medium weight, sappy tannins, redcurrant and raspberry fruit and a slightly bitter, almost medicinal undertone. Drinking Window 2025 - 2032.
The flamboyant 2017 Échézeaux Grand Cru is especially good this year, bursting from the glass with an extravagant bouquet of wild berries, rose petals, cinnamon, smoked duck and Asian spices. On the palate, it's full-bodied, supple and velvety, with an expansive attack and superb depth and amplitude, its fleshy core of fruit framed by fine, melting tannins. Reminiscent of a modern-day version of the Domaine's 1985 Échézeaux, this is another 2017 that has gained appreciably with its final months of élevage. Picked on the 18th, this was where the estate's harvest concluded.
Shy in aromas, the 2017 Echézeaux hints at cherry, currant and light floral notes. It is nonetheless silky and elegant, with fine intensity to the berry flavors, ending with elements of spice and mineral (94 points, non-blind).
A completely different nose offers up much spicier and slightly toastier aromas of red currant, pomegranate, sandalwood and an interesting hint of incense. There is excellent vibrancy to the attractively textured middle weight flavors that don't have the minerality of the Corton but do offer slightly better depth and precision on the lingering finale that is shaped by relatively fine-grained tannins. This should be approachable a bit earlier than usual.
The 2017 Echézeaux Grand Cru was cropped at 30hl/ha, picked September 13 and 15, and bottled over several days in January and February 2019. It has a pale, clear hue. The expressive bouquet, featuring red cherries, cranberry and a touch of bergamot, is well defined, open and shares the tertiary characteristic of the Corton. The palate is medium-bodied and open-knit, with fine-boned tannins, and underpinned by a fine bead of acidity, although not an intense Grand Cru for sure. Slightly grainy in texture, it shows a fine sense of tension and grip. This is a persistent Echézeaux with darker fruit than the Corton, and very saline toward the finish, with good persistency. You could almost broach it now, but that would be sacrilege – wouldn’t it? 1,289 cases produced.
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