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Picked at the same time as La Tâche on 17 September, Romanée-Conti is following a different arc of evolution. Tasted out of barrel, the wine was perfection itself. I remember being struck by the explosive nature of the aromas and their range from high-toned red fruit to darker black fruit and the shading delivered by notes of while herb, mineral, and earth. None of that has disappeared, but the ensemble is less expressively aromatic than it was from barrel. The wine seems to be going quiet, although on the palate the enormous extract, density and well-managed tannins are all still in evidence. It is certain it will be worth the wait.
The 2019 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru is a wine that brought tears to my eyes. Unfurling in the glass with scents of rose petals, black tea, wild berries, exotic spices, violets, bergamot and licorice, it's full-bodied, sensual and enveloping, with a broad attack that segues into a weightless but pungently intense mid-palate defined by striking energy and precision. Seamless and elegant, with melting tannins and mouthwatering acids, it concludes with an expansive, intensely floral finish. It's a monument in the making.
The 2019 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru was picked on 17 of September at 22.5hL/ha. I left my glass for five minutes before the first sip since it does not like to give everything away at first pouring. Firstly, it is a little deeper in colour than other recent vintages. Waiting for the wine to open pays dividends, revealing exquisitely-defined brambly red fruit, incense and red roses. There is a very slight gamey element, not strong, but just lingers off-stage. The palate is medium-bodied with lace-like tannins that frame the otherworldly, pure, red fruit. It is perfectly balanced and bewitchingly pure, a crescendo of flavour that this year, at least at this early juncture, put the La Tâche in its place. So elegant on the finish and remarkably persistent, this is just perfection in a glass. 409 cases produced. Tasted at Corney & Barrow’s annual in bottle tasting in London.
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